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Practical Prol Elite Katana
Practical Prol Elite Katana
€ 549,00
€ 525,00
White Oak Bokken
White Oak Bokken
€ 29,95
€ 24,95
Red Oak Quality Bokken
Red Oak Quality Bokken
€ 29,95
€ 24,95
Practical Special Katana
Practical Special Katana
€ 315,00
€ 289,00
Pine Tree Katana
Pine Tree Katana
€ 2.229,00
€ 2.049,00

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Sword Care and Maintenance

The Samurai believed that their soul was embodied within their sword. For this reason they treated their weapons with the utmost of respect, cleaning them regularly to maintain their beauty and readiness for battle. Although as a modern sword owner your battles will be fought largely in the dojo, respect and maintenance for your weapon is of the utmost importance to maintain the longevity and value of your sword. Follow the steps below to ensure that your blade retains its luster and worth for as long as possible.


Whatever sword you purchase and however sharp the blade, it must be remembered that it is still a weapon and can harm or even kill others if used incorrectly. Keep swords away from children at all times by storing them in a locked case or display them high enough to avoid any accidental usage by minors. It can also not be stressed enough that swords intended for dojo or Tameshigiri (cutting) use should be supervised at all times by a trained sensei or experienced fighters. Irresponsible use of swords, such as trying to hack through trees or waging theatrical-style battles with razor-sharp swords is improper use of these weapons and dishonorable to the Japanese fighting tradition of the Samurai.


Be aware that swords coming from the factory are often coated in heavy grease to protect blades during shipping. Use a solvent such as mineral spirits to remove this grease before applying a light coat of oil or silicone spray. A gun/reel cloth coated in silicone is also a good option to help remove dust or any fine remnants of grease left over from shipping. Moisture is the chief enemy of swords, causing rust that can detract from both the functionality and appearance of your blade. If rust does appear on the surface of your sword, here are some things to try:
Use a 600 grit or finer wet/dry sandpaper and some lightweight oil after wiping the blade with a soft cloth before application. Also make sure to apply only a thin coat of oil when returning the blade to its scabbard to avoid staining/ruining the swords fittings. Try to avoid touching the blade as the natural oils from your skin can cause rust and detract from the finish. Always wipe your blade after use as a habit in case any sweat (from the rigors of dojo practice, for instance) may have touched the blade as well. Periodically check your blade for any pits or areas where the sheen is not as bright as other areas these spots may have residue from your skin on them (salt from your sweat, for instance) and should be treated with fine steel wool or a product like Nev-R-Dull. Before using steel wool, however, wipe the blade with a fine cloth and oil. Its important to remember that polishing a blade is an art and practice that takes years to master; you may want to consider taking your sword to your dojo/sensei and asking for a recommendation for where you can get your sword professionally cleaned.

Sword Storage

Be aware that the moisture resulting from humid climates is often the primary cause of rusting in swords. This is why its important to consider how youll display your weapons depending on the environment in which you live. If you live in a climate with low humidity, its fine to hang your swords on a wall with steel hooks (aluminum is not recommended) or wooden display racks. In high humidity areas its recommended to store your weapons in a sealed case and keep humidity below 30% by using desiccants whenever possible. Its important to coat your sword with oil on a periodic basis (one or two times a month at least). Many Japanese Sword Collectors recommend choji, a mineral oil containing clove oil for scent. Gun oil is also appropriate. Whatever your preference, apply the oil in one coat, wipe it clean with a soft cloth, and then repeat this process. Two to three coats will allow the oil to clean the blade without getting excessive. If you desire to display your swords with blades exposed (and again, this is NOT recommended in the presence of children or minors), we recommend a caruba-based wax (such as car wax) or a spray lacquer. This will maintain a thicker layer of protection from moisture than just oil alone.

How to Treat Wood or Leather

Wooden handles or parts should be treated with a light coating of lemon oil to help prevent cracking. Leather can be treated with paste wax. This is recommended for handles as it will not lessen the potency of gripping surfaces. Mink oil can be used for scabbards. Keep in mind that leather traps moisture, so your sword should either not be kept in its scabbard for long periods of time or should be oiled/cleaned periodically to avoid rusting. Swords of the East offers several kits to aid in the process of maintaining your swords original luster/strength. Kits contain: a cotton cloth; powder ball (for application of powders/oils to the blade); Sword Oil; Rice Paper (for the application/removal of oil along with polishing the blade); and a Brass Hammer (to install/remove bamboo pins in grip, although this is not recommended unless you are trained in this process--removing pins can cause them to wear and result in a loose grip and less than optimum katana performance). In regards to your scabbard, wipe it with a very soft cloth to maintain its sheen. Do not handle by any other portion besides the wrapped section as this can result in fine scratches on the black lacquer finish. Body oils can also stain or damage the finish as well.

Using Your Maintenance Kit

At least every three months, use your kit to maintain the finish on your blade. You should also utilize this process if you accidentally touch your blade as body oils can damage the sheen/luster of your blade and in a worst case scenario cause rusting. Remove any oil remaining/pooled on blade (from previous applications) by wiping with included rice paper. Hold the edge of the blade away from you to avoid injury and work slowly; you may also use your included cotton cloth for this process and launder it when finished. Use the included powder ball to tap the blade every two to three inches along the length of the blade to coat it in a light dusting of powder. Rub the powder with rice paper of cotton cloth to spread powder evenly along the blade. Continue rubbing with this process to polish the blade; stop once both sides of blade are polished and no more powder remains on your sword. Be careful not to inhale powder and wash hands thoroughly when finished. Next, apply 2-3 drops of oil along the length of each side of the blade and spread it evenly over your weapon. Sheath your blade with oil still on the blade and do not touch so as to keep your body oils from marring the finish. Store your sword in an area of low humidity and utilize desiccants in a case if you have one for your sword.


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